As indicated by the collection family in which it has been placed, the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel is inspired by historical pieces in its design and aesthetics; the case shape, rounded bezel, crown, and combination of Roman numerals and railroad minute track all reflect a very pocket watch and early wristwatch sensibility.
So, given that it is not by any means their first perpetual calendar, what are the distinguishing features of this new model? It is a 42mm sized white gold watch with a deep blue Grand feu enamel dial with, of course, a fumé effect.
In fact, it has a number of familiar Moser touches, including the engraved enamel inserts around the side of the rounded Heritage case.
So, in looking at the dial of this new Heritage Perpetual, for those familiar with Moser’s minimalist take on this complication it will be familiar – along with the hours, minutes, small seconds, and large date window, the month indicator is via a very sllim truncated central hand, and there is a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The leap year indicator is, like the other Moser Perpetual Calendars, put on the movement side.
This time, however, there is something extra attractive about it to its siblings – the combination of the very modern Moser take on how to depict the perpetual calendar functions with the classical styling and how the deep blue transitions to such a dark colour that the black date window almost seamlessly blends in.
Powering it, and visible through the open case back, is the manually-wound Calibre HMC 800, which beats at 18,000 VPH and has a power reserve of seven days. The pallet fork and escapement are made from gold and the movement is, of course, hand-finished and decorated, with the Moser double stripes.
Coming on a matching blue alligator strap with an 18k white gold pin buckle, and limited to twenty pieces, the H. Moser & Cie Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel has an RRP of CHF 99,000.
[Photo credit: H.Moser & Cie]