Along with the simplicity of the new Portugieser Automatic launched by IWC this ‘year of the Port’, at the other end of the spectrum is a multi-complication – the new Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph. This is along a similar thematic note as some recent posts on new pieces that combine a chronograph function with other complications.
If it looks a little familiar, this is because this combination of complications debuted in the Da Vinci line in 2017, with whom it shares a movement. The new Portugieser is available in two versions, both limited to fifty pieces. The boutique edition (Ref. IW394005) is in 18k Armor Gold (IWC’s proprietary version of 5N red gold which they say is harder and more durable than regular 5N red gold) with a blue dial, and the other edition, in platinum with a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW394006).
Both cases are 43.5mm with a thickness of 16mm, water resistant to 30m, and have open case backs, through which you can see the automatic Calibre 8990. The movement has an 18kt gold rotor, diamond-coated silicon pallet and escape wheel, beats at 28,800 VPH, and a power reserve of 68 hours.
The dials of both the regular and Boutique Edition Tourbillon Retrograde Chronographs feature polished leaf-shaped hands, a railroad minutes track, applied numerals, combined 60 minute/ 12 hour chronograph totaliser sub dial at 12 o’clock, 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and the retrograde date between 8 o’clock and 11 o’clock. Regardless of the dial colour, they are quintessentially Portugieser; there’s no mistaking them for anything else.
The standard model variant is a very traditional Portugieser look, with a silvery white dial, platinum numerals, and blued chronograph hands. The Armor Gold variant, which has a dark blue sunburst dial with gold numbers and hands, brings to mind other blue dialled IWCs.
Both versions of the new Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph come on blue alligator Santoni with either 18kt rose gold or white gold buckles.
The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph has an RRP of CHF 123,000 CHF and the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Boutique Edition, an RRP of CHF 105,000.
[Photo credit: IWC]