With the onset of this year’s SIHH imminent, it’s time to start covering some of the models already announced, of which hopefully we will be able to bring you as many ‘in the metal’ photos as possible during the five days of the Salon.
First up we thought we’d cover three new additions to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s much-loved Duomètre collection. The Duomètre Sphérotourbillon, Chronograph, and Quantième Lunaire now find themselves with grey dials and red gold cases.
For those new to the Duomètre timepieces, what is special about them is their movement, which is characterised by two independent energy sources (the ‘dual wings’), each devoted to a different function. Two separate gear trains and main spring barrels, one for the time and the other for the relevant complication. The gear trains are connected by a single shared regulating organ.
The Duomètre Sphérotourbillon comes in a 42mm 18k red gold case. Inside is the manual-wind Calibre 382 with a multi-axis tourbillon that is equipped with a cylindrical balance with double terminal curves. The tourbillon has a seconds display that can be reset back to zero via a pusher at 2 o’clock without simultaneously stopping the regulating organ. The tourbillon cage is titanium and spins at 30 seconds for the cage and 15 seconds for the axis.
If you have come across the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon already then the dial design will be familiar – the main dial is on the right, featuring the time and date. The seconds sub dial is at the botom and a 24-hour sub dial for the second time zone, between 11 o’clock and 12 o’clock. Next to each of these sub dials are power reserve indicators for the movement and for the indicators themselves.
The grey Magnetite (a mineral that is an iron ore) is an interesting choice of dial material that we look forward to seeing, especially in terms of texture. The red gold of the case is naturally carried through to the leaf-shaped gold-plated hands and markers. What is perhaps less expected is that it comes on a brown alligator strap.
Secondly we have the Duomètre Chronograph, this time powered by the manual-wind Caliber 380. The second of the ‘duo’ functions for this is, of course, a chronograph. If you’ve ever had a play with this watch in its previous incarnations you will know how interesting the 1/6 second jumping seconds feature of the chronograph function is. It is actually a feature that people are still fascinated by.
There are fifty hours of power reserve for both the timekeeping and chronograph functions; turning the crown clockwise winds the main movement for the time function and counter-clockwise, for the chronograph. A single pusher above the crown is responsible for all the chronograph functions.
Again, it is in a 42mm rose gold case with its combination of polished and satin-brushed finishing.
Finally, the Duomètre Quantième Lunaire 42, about which you can read at this link.
The model and complication was first launched in 2010, and showsthe time with a jumping foudroyante seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments, as well as the date and the age of the moon (as per the ‘Lunaire’ name).
The Quantième Lunaire uses the Cal. 381 movement inside this new 42mm red gold case. The watch features two seconds hands; the main one is a centre sweep hand and the second one at 6 o’clock is a jumping (or ‘flying’, also called ‘foudroyante’) seconds hand accurate to 1/6th of a second. Setting the time is performed by pulling the crown, whereupon both the seconds hands jump to the zero position, leaving the escapement running. Pushing the crown activates both hands simultaneously by re-coupling into the running escapement.
As is the case for the other new Duomètre watches, it features rose-gold appliqués and gold-plated hands and comes on a chocolate brown alligator strap with a rose-gold folding clasp.