Peter Speake-Marin’s watches, and in particular his distinctive Piccadilly case, have long held a strong hold on me. I am an unabashed lover of the case design, large lugs and all, and feel privileged to have met him twice here in Sydney.
In recent years he has been, to some extent, going ‘back to basics’. The new ‘Resilience’, his latest foray into a broader range of entry level watches, is part of this. Available in either 38mm or 42mm and in stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it harks back to his past, its baked enamel dial inspired by the classic designs of the antique pocket watches he restored in his early watchmaking days in London and its name echoing the resilience of these pocket watches.
The enamel dial is a clean bright white, the heated blued‑steel ‘Foundation’ hands and Roman numerals a combination and classicism that is time tested and one of Peter Speake-Marin’s signatures and strengths.
Both sides of the copper dial base are enamelled to ensure an even tension within the construction of the material. After that, enamel powder is applied manually and placed in the oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C to melt the powder onto the copper. This process is then repeated a further four times before the final polishing stage, during which the numerals are printed in black enamel.
Inside the Resilience is the Eros 2 automatic calibre with a five day power reserve that is also used in the new HMS (Hours Minutes Seconds) Speake-Marin watch. The use of this calibre, measuring 30.40mm x 4.35mm, means that the Resilience will have less bulk than the older Piccadillys, with the case 12mm high. It also has a display case back showing his distinctively shaped ‘topping tool’ hand finished rotor.
The watch will come with a handmade alligator strap on a stainless steel or 18K red gold buckle. For more details, visit Peter Speake-Marin’s website.