WATCHES & WONDERS GENEVA 2020: Baume & Mercier’s new Baumatic small complications

At the SIHH 2018 Baume & Mercier launched a surprise in the form of the Baumatic Chronometer, a handsome back-to-basics dress watch powered by the brand’s first manufacture movement, featuring a 5 day power reserve, COSC certification, and anti-magnetic up to 1500 gauss.

Last year saw the introduction of a perpetual calendar. Now, the Baumatic collection expands further with the addition of some complications as well as revisiting the original Baumatic, all with movements based on the original Baumatic calibre.

To my mind, the best looking of the new models by far is the rather attractive Baumatic Day-Date/ Moon-Phase, which comes in a 42mm case of either steel (photo at the top) or in 18 kt pink gold with a gradient (yes, again this graduated colour dial theme of late) grey lacquered dials. The cases are a combination of polished and satin-finished. The day of the week is at 12 o’clock, and the date indication frames the moon phase at 6 o’clock. The moon phase complication has a star-strewn background and smoked grey sapphire.

For the stainless steel model, the trapezoidal hour markers are rhodium-plated, as are the hands and the moon-phase disc with blue lacquered finish. For the pink gold model, the hour markers and hands are gilt. The moon phase is polished gilt with a blue lacquered finish.

Inside is the new automatic Baumatic Calibre BM14 1975 AC2, which has a bridge with circular graining, sand-blasted plate with snailed decoration, and a gilt open-worked oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève finishing. It beats at 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of five days.

The stainless steel model comes on an alligator strap with triple folding buckle and an easy-change system that doesn’t require a strap changing tool. The RRP is CHF 4,000/ AUD 6,900 and it will be released October 2020.

The rose gold variant comes on the same interchangeable blue alligator strap on an 18 kt pink gold pin buckle. It will be available October 2020 and has an RRP of CHF 13,800/ AUD 18,600.

Next up is the more traditional looking new Baumatic Moon-Phase/ Date. It comes in a 42mm steel case that again, features a combination of polished and satin finishing. It has a porcelain look white dial with rhodium plating on the trapezoidal indices, hands, and moon-phase disc.

Inside is the in-house automatic Baumatic BM14 1975 AC1 which beats at 28,800 VPH and has a 5 day power reserve. The bridge features circular graining, there is a sand-blasted plate with snailed decoration, and an open-worked oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève and snailing. This is the 5 day movement without COSC certification.

The Baumatic Moon-Phase/ Date comes on either the same blue alligator strap with triple folding buckle as the previous model or a satin-polished five-row bracelet. The pricing is RRP CHF 3,650/ AUD 6,150 on a strap and CHF 3,800/ AUD 6,450 on a bracelet, with both formally launching during October 2020.

In addition to these new models, Baume & Mercier have also announced new versions of the Baumatic Date COSC. One thing to note is that these dials all feature cross hairs.

There is a new 40mm stainless steel model with the same grey gradient dial with the same use of rhodium-plating as the previous model, and comes on either an alligator strap with triple folding buckle, or a bracelet.

The two-tone bracelet model has the ‘porcelain look’ white dial familiar in the Baumatic, gilt trapezoidal incides, gilt hour and minute hands, and an anthracite seconds hand. The bi-metal integrated bracelet has a combination of polished and satin finishing and is secured by a triple folding clasp.

Finally, there is a new version of the pink gold Baumatic Date COSC in slightly smaller (39mm) and slightly thinner case with the grey gradient dial, gilt indices and hands, on an alligator strap with a 5N PVD pin buckle.

Functionally, they are all just the time and (enlarged) date. They all have the in-house automatic Baumatic BM13 1975A COSC which beats at 28,800 VPH and a five day power reserve. It has a bridge with circular graining, sand-blasted plate with snailing, and an open-worked oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève and snailing.

The 40mm Baumatic Date COSC steel is CHF 2,650/ AUD 4,400 on an alligator strap and CHF 2,800/ AUD 4,700 on a bracelet, with availability from September 2020. The 40mm Baumatic Date COSC two-tone will be CHF 4,000/ AUD 6,900. The Baumatic Date COSC red gold has an RRP of CHF 6,400/ AUD 10,800 and will be launched in October 2020.

 

[Photo credit: Baume & Mercier]



Categories: Baume & Mercier, Watch Profile, watches

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