Watches & Wonders Geneva 2020 has had to go digital this year, but a major participating brand, Cartier, have decided to have their own dedicated website as well as participating in the fair’s site. The site, called ‘Digital Watchmaking Encounters’, is where the brand can go into depth about the new Maillon de Cartier, Pasha de Cartier, Santos XL, and Tank Asymétrique. That’s not to forget the new Metier d’Arts pieces as well, which are always a highlight.
A new collection is often worth noting, so it is that which is the subject of this post.
It’s important to note one thing at the outset – the Maillon de Cartier is a completely new collection family, but these launch models are all quartz, so is about design and aesthetics, both of which are strengths of the brand.
As readers may know, I do like a watch name that is self explanatory. ‘Maillon’ means ‘link’ in French and these new watches are, fundamentally, bracelet watches, with the bracelet a nod to the jewellery strength of Cartier. In the case of these new pieces however, we’re not talking about slim or delicate wrist jewellery, but a luxury bracelet of twisted rectangular chain links that makes its presence known on your wrist. It could be argued that the bracelet is in fact the key part of the new Maillon de Cartier.
In contrast to the solidity of the new bracelet, the dial is a scant 16mm x 17mm. It is worth noting that the case and bracelet are the same thickness.
The watch comes white gold, yellow gold, or pink gold. The yellow gold is the only one without any stones. Its crown is set with a sapphire cabochon, whereas the others have a brilliant-cut diamond in the crown. The pink gold version either has diamonds on the bezel, or is in full-pavé. The white gold model is only available with full pavé diamonds. Five of the six launch models have an opaline dial.
For the 18k pink gold or 18k white gold variants, the bezels are set with twenty-four brilliant-cut diamonds (0.54 ct) as well as the 0.07 ct diamond in the crown.
The full-pavé versions have the crown set with the same brilliant-cut diamond (0.07 ct) but the 18k pink gold one’s case and bracelet are set with 400 brilliant-cut diamonds (8.30 cts) and for the 18k white gold one, the dial, case, and bracelet have a total of 486 brilliant-cut diamonds (8.64 cts).
As well as these five models will form part of Cartier’s general collection, there is a model that is numbered and limited to fifty pieces. It is 18k yellow gold with the case and bracelet set with 580 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 9.33 carats. The crown is also set with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.07ct). The dial for this model is black lacquer.
[Photo credit: Cartier]