HANDS-ON: Cartier Pasha de Cartier Grille

This year Cartier has given some love to the Pasha de Cartier Grille, with updates.

First things first – most of you know the pack drill. The Pasha de Cartier was inspired by a round water-resistant watch of the 1930s supposedly created for the Pasha El Glaoui of Marrakesh and thus, named after him.

As a collection, Cartier’s Pasha in the modern form was introduced in 1985, but its name and concept goes back to 1932 when the then Pasha of Marrakech, Thami El Glaoui, commissioned Cartier to make a watch that would be able to suit his luxury and travel-oriented lifestyle and also be water resistant, so that he could swim in his pool without having to take it off.

Gérald Genta created the modern Cartier Pasha. The collection has several core characteristics – smooth round cases, round crowns with a cabochon stone, a square inner minute chapter ring, large 12,3, 6 and 9 numerals, sword-shaped hands, and distinctive connections to the bracelet/ strap. There have been variants that have abandoned some of the dial features, even the square, but at a minimum the case has remained the same and immediately distinguishable.

Until 1985, the mythical Cartier Pasha was purely associated with Thami El Glaoui. Genta’s design was in a 38mm sized case, and in addition to the features mentioned above, it kept El Glaoui’s idea of having a watch with some degree of waterproofness courtesy of the chained crown protection cover.

These first Pashas were all in yellow gold and made in limited quantities but covering everything from time-only pieces to chronograph, GMT and perpetual calendar variants. Steel Pashas did not arrive until the late 1990s. There have been various limited and unlimited collection models since then, but a comprehensive reboot of the Pasha didn’t happen until a couple of years ago.

This new Grilled takes its design cues from a gridded Cartier watch from the 1930s, The grille was for both protection and aesthetic reasons.

The new Pasha Grille has a re-designed removable hand-polished grille attached via four clasps that you can now remove with ease – you simply push and turn, whereupon a spring mechanism hidden under the bezel area will activate.

There are, of course, several new Pasha Grille options. The largest is in a 41mm yellow gold case and there are two available in bejewelled versions, in 35mm and 30mm sized cases. The larger two models are powered by the automatic Calibre 1847 MC and the smallest is quartz.

The Pasha de Cartier in yellow gold comes in a 41 mm wide and 9.55 mm thick case. The 35mm rose gold Pasha de Cartier has a bezel and grid with 117 brilliant-cut diamonds. The other rose gold Pasha de Cartier Grille comes in a 30mm case. The bezel and grid in this watch has 97 brilliant-cut diamonds instead of 117. They all feature the QuickSwitch interchangeable strap system.

So – pricing. The Australian RRP for the 41mm automatic model is $27,100, the 35mm rose gold and diamond model is $42,800, and the 30mm rose gold quartz model is $31,500. All prices are inclusive of GST.

Categories: Hands-on, Watch Profile, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, Women's watches

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