HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

You may recall that Vacheron Constantin’s ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ collection is where they choose to use platinum for case material. The pieces that fall under this category are also all made in limited quantities.

Now, they have a new addition, which (for the time being, anyway – who knows what he future will bring), sits at the top of the Platine tree. Combining the platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial, meet the Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.

The case of this new model is 43mm with a thickness of 12.94mm, and in 950 platinum, with water resistance of 30m. As the name states, it is a combination of two complications. So along with the hours and minutes and a small seconds ta 9 o’clock, we have a perpetual calendar, with a leap year indication of course, moonphase, and chronograph.

The dial is salmon-coloured opaline, with the small seconds and chronograph counters are encircled by a satin-brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailing is used on the circumference of the date display.

The moon phase is a 950 platinum disc, with 3D polished moons with two moods – more cheery or more circumspect. They appear against a frosted background featuring stars.

As for the rest of the dial, the applied hour markers and hour and minute hands are all 18K white gold, whereas the chronograph and date hands are blued steel. Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross appears just below 12 o’clock in 18K 5N pink gold, and its facets are sand-blasted on one side and polished on the other. Alongside the railway-type minutes track is a painted black tachymeter scale.

The new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is powered by in-house manually-

wound 1142 QP, with a column wheel chronograph. It beats at 21,600 VPH and has a power reserve of 48 hours. The mainplate features circular graining, Côtes de Genève is on the bridges, and the rest is a combination of hand-bevelling and straight-grained flanks.

Strap-wise it comes on a blue Mississippiensis alligator strap with a 950 platinum folding clasp.

Because it is an Excellence Platine, the new Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is only available from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. We’ve covered a couple of salmon-colour dial watches in the past twelve months or so. The white metal and salmon dial combination can be a really attractive combination, and this new Vacheron Constantin is a handsome new addition to this field.

Categories: Platinum, Vacheron Constantin, Watch Profile, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022

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