WATCHES & WONDERS GENEVA 2020: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix® Sepia

Two years after the collection’s launch, and after the Fiftysix® ventured into petrol blue at last year’s SIHH, this year sees another colour being added to mix – a dark brown duo in 40mm-sized 18 kt 5N pink gold cases and matching calfskin straps.

For those who do not know of this collection, its name refers to the year 1956 during which Vacheron Constantin released their Reference 6073, the inspiration for this collection family. The 6073 was a 35mm timepiece with a silver matte dial, applied gold numerals, dauphine hands (all classic dress watch features), and powered by the automatic Calibre 1019/1.

Let’s first look at the automatic date model, called the Fiftysix® self-winding.

The new Sepia’s dial has an opaline centre, sunburst exterior, and baton hands and 18k 5N pink gold markers with Super-LumiNova. Thankfully, once again, the date window is the same colour as the dial. The new dial is topped by a box-type crystal. These aspects are consistent with the petrol blue dial model.

Inside is the automatic Calibre 1326, which beats at 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 48 hours. This movement is based on the Cartier1904-PS MC and produced by Richemont’s Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier, but finished, assembled, and regulated by Vacheron Constantin.

The second piece, the Fiftysix® Complete Calendar, is again already familiar, thanks to the earlier pieces. The sector dial is dark sepia with an opaline centre and sunburst outer section. The hands, numerals, and hour markers are all 18k 5N pink gold, with lume on the hands and hour markers. The ‘complete calendar’ of the name has the functions of the time, centre seconds, day of the week, date, and month, with a moon phase indication (122 years of accuracy) at the bottom of the dial.

Movement-wise it also has the automatic Calibre 2460 QCL/1, which was launched for the Fiftysix® collection. It beats at 28,800VPH and has a power reserve of 40 hours.

As mentioned the Complete Calendar, like the Self Winding, both come on brown calfskin straps, which have 18k 5N pink gold pin buckles with the Vacheron polished half Maltese Cross.

Pink gold is usually seen as more ‘dressy’ type of case metal, but in the official photos at least, the warmth of the pink gold and dark brown dial combination for this particular dial design does appear more casual than this metal would normally ‘feel’, and the use of a calf strap with contrast stitching adds to impression.


[Photo credit: Vacheron Constantin]

Categories: SIHH/ Watches & Wonders GVA 2020, Vacheron Constantin, Watch Profile, watches

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