In a break from SIHH 2017 posts today we bring to you the new De Bethune DB25L Milky Way, which #thewatchnerd and I had the opportunity to see in Geneva.

This new piece features De Bethune’s instantly recognisable blue mirror-polished titanium dial with a new decoration that is a variant of ‘star’ related things they have done before – a depiction of the Milky Way. There has been a DB25 model where you could personalise the constellation to be depicted on the dial (or take the default option), so conceivably you could have had the Milky Way, and of course has been a DB25 Jewellery adored with stars and in white gold set with baguette-cut blue sapphires, so in a way this latest watch is a melding of past models.

The blue dial (which arguably no-one does quite like they do) features polished rose gold Breguet-style hands (they said that they wanted to try some more ‘delicate’ hands for a change) and their spherical moonphase indicator in palladium and flame-blued steel. The stars are micro-laser struck with hand-applied 24 carat gold leaf.

Inside the 44.6mm platinum case is the manual-win DB2105v2 movement which, with a power reserve indicator (six days), is of course visible at the back. The movement has the silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring (patented), the patented ‘De Bethune’ balance spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel, and patented triple pare-chute shock absorption system. The plate and bridge of the movement are mirror-polished steel, with hand-snailed barrels.

The single crown is used for winding, time and moon phase setting.

As well as the diamond markers (as per the DB25 Jewellery) the case band is bejewelled, only in this case with baguette diamonds, sixty-six of them.

Production of this will be limited – one piece per annum. For those wondering yes they do plan to do a version sans diamonds.

Categories: De Bethune, Hands-on, Switzerland, Watch Profile, watches

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