A little while ago we shared with you a rather intriguing mesh-dialled watch from Moritz Grossmann’s ATUM Collection. Today we bring you another new 2016 member of the Grossmann family, the BENU Power Reserve.
Coming in a rose or white gold 41mm case, both variants have an argenté dial on which a slim elegant linear power reserve indicator appears under the brand name. You will notice that it has two colours; when the mainspring is fully wound it is white and as it winds down and power is lost, red appears along the bar. It is driven by a planetary gearing system.
Inside is the in-house manual-wind Calibre 100.2 which beats at 18,000 VPH and has a power reserve of forty-two hours. This movement is the first to include a newly designed Grossmann balance wheel and has a two-thirds plate in untreated German silver, horizontal Glashütte ribbing, snailing on the ratchet wheel, raised gold chatons, hand-engraved balance cock, a removable clutch winder, and a stop seconds. The movement includes an ‘index adjuster’ micrometer screw that allows precise regulation.
As well as the hours and minutes and power reserve indicator, there is the subsidiary seconds at the bottom of the dial. You will note that there is also a pusher near the crown. This is for disabling the hand-setting mode i.e. start/ stopping the movement.
When you pull the winding crown out, it switches to the hand-setting mode and stops the movement and you can set the hands. After you have finished, the movement is restarted with the pusher so that you don’t inadvertently move the hands when pushing the crown in as is sometimes the case with watches, and it switches back to the winding mode.
On the rose gold model the hands are stainless steel heated to a brown colour and for the white gold version, the hour and minute hands are polished stainless steel and the seconds one, stainless steel heated to brown.
This may seem like a fucntionally simple watch – time, power reserve, small seconds, that also looks simple.
But it isn’t so simple. The use of a linear power reserve is interesting, the way in which the time is set is interesting. Its looks are also seemingly fairly standard, but the browning of hands makes it stand out, the very very thin elongated Grossmann hands are remarkable for having been handmade to that slimness. It is a watch that at first glance may seem not too dissimilar from many other watches but which, when you actually look at it properly, realise IS different. In a good way.
The Australian RRP is $42,150 (incl. GST) for the rose gold model and $43,650 incl. GST for the white gold model.