One of the most talked-about releases this year from TAG Heuer has been the Carrera Heuer-02T, a COSC-certified automatic chronograph combined with a grade 5 titanium and carbon flying tourbillon. Not just because of the fact of it, but also because of the astonishing price point, starting at some 15,000 CHF for the base titanium model to a Black Phantom version and in this post, a rose gold iteration that I saw in Sydney.
The launch model is made from grade 5 titanium, with twelve modular components with a brushed finish and black titanium bezel, which makes for many possible combinations to the core 45mm titanium case in terms of the lugs and bezel. There is also an all black variant called the Black Phantom, and two rose gold versions. The model we are sharing with you today combines a titanium-carbide coated centre case (same as the one used on the Phantom) with Rose Gold (18k 5N) lugs. The hour-markers are Rose Gold plated, as are each of the hands. The bezel is the same as that used on the two titanium models. All are waterproof to 100m.
With the CH-80 chronograph as its base, visible through the open case back is the Heuer-02T movement, with a 28,800VPH and a single barrel powering the chronograph and tourbillon functions. The power reserve is 65 hours.
For those wondering about the cost of the new tourbillon and how much was down ‘in-house’, all the main components are made and assembled at TAG Heuer bar the balance spring, which is made by Atokalpa.
The dial is partially skeletonised with black bridges. As mentioned, the Heuer-02T movement used for this new model is based on the Calibre CH80; it has become a dual register, with the space for the seconds counter at 6 o’clock now taken up by the carbon and titanium tourbillon. There remains a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The dial features baton-shaped hour and minute hands and polished and satin-finished baton indices. Hands and indices are lumed.
Coming on leather straps sewn onto black rubber with a deployant buckle, but also available on perforated rubber straps, they are unmistakably sports watches. To wear, this rose gold one was quite light and definitely comfortable. Does it feel like a higher-end TAG? Absolutely. With a few versions available already, and with a price point ranging from about 15,000 CHF to 20,000 CHF, for those who want a Swiss tourbillon at an incredibly competitive price, the new TAG is worth looking at.
The titanium model is Au RRP $20,450. There is no Australian RRP for the rose gold model as yet.