Now here is something special – Breguet celebrating 250 years with the new Classique Souscription 2025 (Ref. 2025BH/28/9W6).

The words ‘souscription’ and ‘timepiece’ are indelibly linked within the history of Breguet the brand, and of Abraham-Louis himself. The ‘souscription’ single-hand pocket watch which today’s wristwatch commemorates made its first appearance in 1797 – a single hand on an enamel dial of which approximately 700 were made in various forms (different metal cases, differences in the movements etc). If you have a copy of ‘The Art of Breguet’, the Habsburg Antiquorum auction catalogue from 1991, you will find some examples there (click on the photos below to see in a larger form).

The new Classique Souscription 2025 introduces the brand’s gold alloy ‘Breguet gold’, which is a mix of gold, silver, copper and palladium. The 18k case is 40mm (thickness of 10.8mm) with water resistance of 30m. The usual Breguet wristwatch fluted case middle is replaced here with a satin-brushed case middle as a nod to the original pocket watch, and the lugs are curved.

Under the domed sapphire crystal is a white Grand Feu enamel dial on a gold base – there is text attesting to this fact at the bottom of the dial, should someone ask. The Breguet signature is black Petit Feu. There are Breguet Arabic numerals, and a minute track. The serial number and secret signature that appears in the Classique collection are also present – engraved with a pantograph. The blued steel hand isi flame-blued and mirror polished.

The case back is decorated with hand guilloché and also has a domed sapphire crystal. There is a commemorative engraving of “BREGUET 250 YEARS” on the bottom, and “REF. 2025” at the top.

Behind it the sapphire lies the new manually-wound VS00 calibre in gilded brass in the same shade as the Breguet gold alloy. Numbered and signed, with a single barrel it beats at 21,600 VPH and has a power reserve of four days. It features the patented Nivachron balance-spring with Breguet overcoil. The plate and bridges are finely shot-blasted, a new decoration for the brand.

At the centre of the new movement is the ratchet wheel, which features an engraved inscription from Abraham-Louis Breguet – his words explaining the design of the Souscription movement, taken from his advertising brochure, are reproduced in his script.

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 comes on a navy blue alligator leather strap with navy blue alligator lining, and an 18k gold pin buckle. Delivered in a numbered Special Edition 250th presentation case in red leather, individually numbered, the RRP is CHF 45,000.

Although single-handed watches are in the minority nowadays, this new special edition is not just a beautiful piece with a genuine direct historical influence, but it is also a dress (wrist) watch with a look that is already proven to be timeless – the original pocket watches still look great today, and this Classique Souscription 2025 will also not date. At 40mm, it lies within the general comfort zone of most wearers today. If you are someone who prefers sub-40 mm watches, a simple look at Breguet’s photos for it, which include photos of it on both male and female wrists, should reassure you.

If you are interested in the original Souscription pocket watches, The Naked Watchmaker has a deconstruction at this link.

[Photo credit: Breguet for the Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch photos]

Categories: Breguet, pocket watches, Watch Profile, watches, Women's watches