WATCHES & WONDERS 2025: Hautlence Retrovision ’85 Limited Edition

Unfortunately I am unable to be in Geneva for Watches & Wonders this year, so it felt fitting to start with Hautlence’s Retrovision ‘85 Limited Edition, a ‘follow up’ in a broad sense, to one of my favourite pieces from Geneva last year, the Retrovision ‘47, and something with a bit of fun to it. This new piece, to use their words “takes inspiration from an iconic design from a well-known Japanese toy manufacturer”.

The utilisation of nostalgia from broader cultural influences on watch design has become, albeit relatively niche, a ‘thing’ in the last decade and a half or thereabouts, concentrated in smaller brands. One early proponent of this was Romain Jerome – if you’ve been around for long enough, you may recall when their Space Invaders watch appeared.

Yes, it is important to acknowledge that this is not the first twenty-first century horological robot, but they have more differences than similarities and in fact would make for a fun collection double-act.

Why start with this piece? Firstly, as a nod to how a pop culture (nostalgic or otherwise) design influence approach has gone from being completely unheard of to becoming a solid part of the industry. Secondly because pieces such as this are like catnip to a generation that grew up during a certain era and who may now be in a position to indulge in high-end horology which references things that mattered to them when they were growing up. Lastly, there is a personal link for me between this new ‘robot’ and watchmaking because one of the earliest people I ‘met’ in an online watch community has ties to the inspiration behind the Retrovision ‘85.

The Retrovision ‘85 robot watch’s case, bezel, and crown are titanium with some copper-coloured PVD coating and were created using 3D printing. The crown has an engraved Hautlence logo. Measuring 64.0 mm x 60 mm x 11.8 mm as a wristwatch and 70mm x 96mm x 43mm in clock form, it has bevelled sapphire crystal on both sides and water resistance of 50m.

The dial consists of a titanium base dial with frosted finishing, an intermediate dial made from rhodium-plated brass with blue and purple PVD treatment, and a sapphire minute disc with applied numerals and Globolight® rings. The watch display comprises of a central minute disc around which the three-hour satellites rotate.The ‘wandering’ time display is accompanied by something extra – a flying tourbillon. In fact it uses the automatic Vagabonde tourbillon movement – the automatic Calibre D31 which beats at 21,600 VPH and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Coming on a black rubber strap with a quick attachment system, the Hautlence Retrovision ‘85 his limited to eight pieces. I really enjoyed having a play with last year’s Retrovision ‘47 ‘in the metal’ last year and am certain that had I managed to be there this year, I’d have felt similarly about this transformational piece of watchmaking.

 

[Photo credit: Hautlence]



Categories: Clocks, Hautlence, Limited Editions, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025

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