WATCHES & WONDERS 2022: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

 

One of the most significant collection launches in recent times from Jaeger-LeCoultre was their re-introduction of the ‘Polaris’ name in 2018 in the form of an entirely new collection family. Since then, the revival and modernisation has proved a fruitful one, and they further expanded their Polaris collection this year.

The modern Polaris may be now be linked more in spirit than form to the original that is its roots, but they are in keeping with what people want from watches nowadays.

This year, at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre added a perpetual calendar watch to the Polaris line for the first time. They say that it is inspired by, in terms of the current Polaris family, by the blue dialled Polaris Mainer Memovox of a couple of years ago, this new Perpetual Calendar featuring a lacquered gradient dark blue dial.

There are two launch references – one in stainless steel (Q9088180) and one in pink gold (Q9082680). They are 42mm (11.97mm thick) with a water resistance of 100m. The cases are a mix of brushed and polished finishing. The top crown rotates the inner bezel, and the lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch. The calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.

The upgrades and modifications mean a watch that has the perpetual calendar displays, a moon phase indication which includes a retrograde display of the Southern Hemisphere along with the more traditional Northern Hemisphere display ‘within’ it, and the Polaris rotating bezel.

The dial format is fairly standard, with the calendar indications are displayed in recessed sub-dials. The date, month and day indicators are at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, and the year displayed within the month indicator. The aforementioned moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock.

At the centre of the dial, there is a small security zone indicator that is red between 2000 and 0400 to warn the wearer not to adjust the time or calendar indications during this period.

Visible through the open case back is the newly developed automatic in-house Calibre 868AA, which is a progression of their 868 perpetual calendar movements which have been used in other models (and which first appeared in 2013). Beating at 28,800 VPH, it has a power reserve of 70 hours. There is an open-worked rose gold rotor.

As is so popular nowadays, the new Polaris Perpetual Calendar has an easy-change strap system which is operated by depressing pushers between the lugs. The stainless steel model comes on a bracelet and with a rubber strap, whereas the rose gold model comes with a blue rubber strap and an alligator strap with a folding clasp.

The Australian RRP for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold is AUD 66,000 and for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar Stainless Steel, AUD 44,100.



Categories: Hands-on, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Watch Profile, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022

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