You may recall an earlier post about some limited editions of Romain Gauthier’s HMS Ten, a continuation of the ‘Prestige HMS’ Collection and released in three variants of ten pieces each : platinum case with a blue dial, white gold with a champagne dial, and a red gold case with an anthracite dial.
A couple of months ago I finally had the chance to see the two examples of this ‘in the metal’, so I thought I’d share some photos of the platinum/ blue and white gold/ anthracite models, along with some thoughts.
Sharing the same case as their predecessors i.e. 41mm with a thickness of 12.10mm, the watch is notable for its sectored dial with off-centre hours and minutes, a partially open dial with the interestingly ‘cut’ seconds sub dial showing part of the hand-finished in-house movement visible through the display back, and the distinctive large flat case back crown which gives the case its clean design as well as the additional bonus of being easy to wind.
This is a good looking watch, front and back. For those who are particular fans of fine finishing, and Gauthier is known for this, you won’t be disappointed.
The numbers on the blue-dialled variant are silvered and the hands, rhodium-treated (gilded for the anthracite model). With the use of multiple layers and textures (smooth and Clou de Paris) for the dial, the result is really rather handsome. Gauthier’s continued use of layers and contrasting textures on his watches is, to my mind, something that he does incredibly well.
The opening between 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock reveals the balance wheel and seconds gear of the in-house Calibre HMS, which is also visible at the back. The movement is hand finished and polished, and its spartan lines, modern. With the exception of the mainspring, balance spring and jewels, all other components of the HMS Ten movement are designed, developed and manufacture by Romain Gauthier.
Coming on an alligator strap with a pin buckle also in a platinum buckle to match the case, this is, as Gauthier’s watches are, very much oriented towards horologically-inclined followers of independent watchmaking. There was, for a short period, an authorised dealer here in Australia. That business is no longer in operation, and as I looked at these and other of his watches, I wondered to myself whether they might reappear on the Australian retail market sometime.