Not only did Cartier have the largest ‘booth’ (in fact an entire wing) at SIHH 2013, but they also had the largest number of models to present, both in terms of totally new novelties and variations on previous models. Despite the large line-up, which the brand managed to present in a very efficient and organised fashion, it was interesting for me personally to note that of all the brand presentations that I attended during SIHH, this session for my particular ‘group’ probably had the lowest attendance levels.
With six new movements, what will no doubt be a raging success in the form of a new (in-house) chronograph addition to the Calibre de Cartier range and some truly beautiful new mystery watches and new complications, not to mention the huge number of new women’s pieces shown, the Cartier powerhouse reinforced just that. Because of the sheer number of models, I will split them up into groups, over several posts.
It may not be the most exciting of the new models to many, but I am starting with the new Calibre de Cartier chronograph with in-house 48 hour power reserve 1904-CH MC automatic movement because I think it will be their biggest seller of the new watches that were presented. It was only a matter of time before the Calibre de Cartier line got a chronograph version, and this is it. The same 42mm case, 100m water resistance, it will be available in pink gold or steel. The steel version has silvered opaline dial, the Caibre date aperture, engraved railtrack, sword-shaped hands in black oxidised steel with luminescent coating. The two metal/ colour variants will naturally both be available with either a strap or bracelet. The pink gold bracelet version carries some heft and weight to it, so if it appeals to you I’d suggest that you try it on for comfort, first. The chronograph’s price starts at 7,400 EUR for the steel and leather strap model. This is a solid new model, and it will do well.
The new Calibre chronograph was presented along with three complications – the Tortue Multi Time Zone, the Rotonde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, and the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon with second time zone.
TORTUE MULTI TIME ZONE
A rather huge 51mm x 45.6mm in size (and 17.2mm thick), this world time watch uses a more discreet way of showing cities – on the left hand side of the case, as opposed to being ringed around the dial. This watch is a dual time with world time function .The home time and second time zone have their respective hands, and the cities, as mentioned, are shown on the side of the Tortue case. The cities are listed in two rows. The icons engraved on the case indicate that the top row is used for the Northern hemisphere in winter (snowflake) and the Southern hemisphere in summer (sun), and vice versa for the lower row.
The dial is lacquered, with local/ home time illustrated on the lower half of the dial from 6 to 6, and an indicator hand showing a sun or moon to distinguish between am and pm. The Breguet-style hands are set via the pusher a 2 o’clock, which also controls the world time disc on the side of the case. The Tortue Multi Time Zone is available in rose and white gold at 29,500 EUR and 31,600 EUR respectively.
ROTONDE DE CARTIER PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH
Cartier’s new perpetual calendar (column wheel) chronograph complication is in a reasonably substantial 42mm case (14.9mm thick) in either white gold with a silver dial or rose gold with a chocolate dial. The new calibre Calibre 9423 MC is an automatic perpetual calendar with retrograde day and 48 hour power reserve. This model, which has a great balanced looking dial, has a retrograde hand indicating days of the week at 6 o’clock, and the date is indicated by a hand on the edge of the dial.
The beaded crown is set with a sapphire cabochon set with a sapphire cabochon and the dial. The white gold model has white galvanised guilloché dial with a silvered openwork grid with sunray effect, black transfer Roman and Arabic numerals/ months/ days of the week, and hands in blued steel. The pink gold version has a brown galvanised guilloche dial, pink transfer Roman and Arabic numerals/ months/ days of the week and gilt steel hands.
The pricing is pink gold for 50,000 EUR and white gold for 53,000 EUR.
BALLON BLEU FLYING TOURBILLON WITH JUMPING SECOND TIME ZONE
This addition is not just a tourbillon with second time zone, but it is designed regulator style, with a central minute hand and two jumping hour sectors for home time and a second time zone. The latter is operated via the pusher at 10 o’clock and the ‘home’ time, by the crown. The latter is indicated on the larger sub dial with Roman numerals. At the end of every hour, the two jumping hours click forward, in sync.
The watch is quite substantial, with a 46mm case and a thickness of 13.8mm. The movement is the manual winding flying tourbillon Caliber MC9456 with the added jump hour module, and has a power reserve of 50 hours.
The satin-finished dial is skeletonised with a sunray effect, symmetrical, and through the case back can be seen the 9455 Calibre with the flying tourbillon and Cartier Cs.
This stunning bit of time keeping is available in white or pink gold, each limited to 50 pieces. The price will be approximately 96,300 EUR and 90,000 EUR respectively.