To mark 270 years, Vacheron Constantin has launched three new platinum Traditionelle calendar complications (yes more calendars) with open-worked silvered gold dials engraved with their Maltese cross motif in an asymmetrical form. The dials also have sapphire parts integrated into them, created by milling the gold to define separate zones for both the engraved motif and the transparent sections. Another point of note is that the movements of the watches have bridges decorated with a ‘côte unique’, used to denote the celebratory nature of the models.
The three models are the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. All three models are limited to 370 pieces each (xxx/370 is engraved on the case back).
First up, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, which comes in a 41mm case (thickness of 11.05mm) with water resistance of 30m. Alongside the time, it has a complete calendar, which measn day, date, month, and moon phase. The dial is hand-guilloché white gold with the aforementioned asymmetrical Maltese cross, which is a specific reference to it being a 270 year model. The hour markers and hour and minute hands are 18k gold. A blued hand acts as the indicator for the date display, which is around the circumference of the dial. The day and month are marked on sapphire discs.
Powering it is the automatic Calibre 2460 QCL/270, which beats at 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 40 hours.
Coming on a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is a limited edition of 370 pieces with an RRP of CHF 69.500 (including taxes).
Next up is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface. Its platinum case is also 41mm, which thickness of 10.9mm and water resistance of 30m. Its functions, alongside thet ime, are a perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication), and a moon phase. As the model name indicates, the date function is retrograde, which is an uncommon date display to be found in a perpetual calendar. The day, month and leap year indications are on three sapphire discs (you’ll have to look carefully for the small leap year one), and there is a railway minutes track circling the dial.
It also has a hand-guilloché white gold dial with the 270th birthday asymmetrical Maltese cross engraving. The hour markers and hands are also 18k gold, and the retrograde date hand is blued gold.
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface has a new automatic in-house movement. The Calibre 2460 QPR31/270 beats at 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 40 hours. I mentioned the use of a retrograde date with this complication being outside the norm – at the centre of the perpetual calendar is a ratchet-style wheel that controls the retrograde date and also drives the month star. There is a finger beneath the ratchet wheel that samples the 12-month cam.
Coming on a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator strap, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface has an RRP of CHF 110,000 (including taxes).
Finally, we come to the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Its platinum case is 41mm (11.07mm thick) with water resistance of 30m.
With a retrograde date and tourbillon (also a small seconds) alongside the time, it again features an open-worked 18k gold dial with hand-guilloché decoration featuring the asymmetrical Maltese cross, 18k hour markers and hour/ minute hands (with a railway minute track), and a retrograde date hand in blued gold. It is powered by the automatic Calibre 2162 R31/270 which beats at 18,00 VPH and has a power reserve of 72 hours.
Coming on a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator strap in a limited edition of 370 pieces, it is POA.
[Photo credit: Vacheron Constantin]
Categories: Limited Editions, Platinum, Vacheron Constantin, Watch Profile, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025
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