In 2020 Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced the Chronomètre FB 2RE. Coming in two limited editions of ten (numbered) pieces each in either 18k white gold or rose gold, it had a new movement, the FB-RE.FC, which combined a one-second remontoir d’égalité with a fusée-and-chain, the latter visible both through the sapphire case back and through a window in the middle of the case’s screw-down frame.

Now, Ferdinand Berthoud presents the COSC-certified FB RES, an evolution of that Chronomètre FB 2RE, with a redesigned movement and with wide ranging customisation options for the thirty-eight watches that will form the entirety of the model’s output. As is their current approach, Ferdinand Berthoud is restricting production numbers to how many movements will be produced.

The customisation options range from the case shape (round or octagonal) to case material (stainless steel, platinum, (round case) titanium, ceramised titanium, and 18k white, yellow, or rose gold), the colour of the inner bezel ring, the dial, and finishing (sand-blasted or satin-brushed), which means that there are an eye-watering 200 plus possible variations, done via an online configurator.

For this new FB RES, the grand feu enamel dial of the 2020 FB 2RE has been replaced by a movement-focused dial, with a combination of bridges and mainplate and an opening between 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock showcasing three mirror-polished gear train bridges. At 9 o’clock is the power reserve indicator. The hour and minute hands are dagger-shaped (available in different colours), and the centre seconds hand is brass. Alongside the hours and minutes, the FB RES has a deadbeat seconds and stop-seconds for time-setting.

There is an open-worked nickel silver decorative plate topping the main plate with, as mentioned both vertical satin-brushed or sand-blasted finishing options, with colour options being champagne, anthracite, or blue. The finishing of the bridges and mainplate is specific to this model and wheels, bridges and screws are all hand-decorated.

Powering the new model is the manually-wound Calibre FB-RES.FC, regulated by fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire, the purpose of which is to even out the energy flow from the barrel to the escapement. It operates through the remontoire, a spring between these components which temporarily stores and releases, via an intermediate wheel, every one second, a small amount of energy every one second that goes to the balance and the central seconds hand as a true (dead) beat second. The movement beats at 18,000 VPH and has a power reserve of 50 hours.

The movement has 1,200 components, including the chain (which itself has 790 parts and is 285mm long). There are 26 bridges and 10 pillars. Finishing-wise, there are nickel silver bridges fitted on stylised stainless-steel pillars which are decorated according to the dial design.

There are some differences between the round and octagonal case options, although they both have 30m water resistance. They are both 44mm, but the round case is 14.30mm thick and the octagonal case, 14.26mm thick.

The new FB-RES comes on an alligator strap (different lengths may be requested) with a double blade folding claps, although you can request a pin buckle.

Finally, if you’re wondering about the FB RES model name, the letters refer to ‘Remontoir d’Égalité Squelette’. You can try the customisation configurator at this link. With so many options available, it is impossible to give any generalised thoughts on the new model, but one thing can be said, and that is that Ferdinand Berthoud’s watches continue to be some of the highest quality production pieces in the market. Some of them are also some of the most hefty, but this is one brand which is definitely best handled and not just seen via photos (Parmigiani Fleurier is another).

Categories: Ferdinand Berthoud, Hands-on, Limited Editions, Platinum, Watch Profile, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024

Tags: fusee and chain