In 2021 Tudor announced an official partnership with France’s Marine Nationale (MN), their first official partnership since the 1980s. Their original relationship dated back to 1956 when the Toulon-based Underwater Study and Research Group (Groupement d’Etude et de Recherches Sous-marines aka G.E.R.S.) received both reference 7922 and 7923 Submariners for assessment and feedback.

Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in 2021 as a take on its Pelagos dive watch, but milspec. An actual ‘working watch’ used professionally by the MN, with whom they designed the watch to meet the needs of the commandos.

Now the brand has a new military-inspired Pelagos FXD. The Reference 25717N is inspired by its history of military watches made for the United States Navy (USN) divers (famously the SEAL teams but also diving instruction and submarine-related) which dates back to the late 1950s, most famously with the Tudor ‘Big Crown’ Reference 7924. Except for the new black colour, this latest Pelagos FXD is similar to the MN model.

Both watches feature the same satin-brushed 42mm titanium case with the all-important fixed lugs (hence the FXD of the name). Machined from a single block of titanium, this feature is the product of the discussions with the MN about what would aid robustness to the dive watch.

Waterproof to 200m, the new FXD has a uni-directional rotating bezel. Meeting the relevant ISO standard for dive watches, it is a black 60-notch graduated titanium bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert with Super-LumiNova®. The crown is titanium, with the Tudor shield in relief.

Tudor’s history with the USN until the 1980s is arguably the most well-known aspect of the brand and long term collectability of its older pieces. The signature snowflake hands that are a core element of modern-day Tudor watches is one example of the enduring effect of that relationship.

This new Pelagos FXD version features a clean matte black dial with no extra functions and is said to be inspired by the aesthetics of a late 1960s-era Tudor dive watches.

In this Tudor-provided photo a 1965 Underwater Demolition Team Handbook provides the backdrop for an Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7928.

The Pelagos FXD Ref 25717N is again powered by the COSC-certified automatic Calibre MT5602 which beats at 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 70 hours. Its open-worked rotor is tungsten with both satin-brushed with sand-blasted finishing. The bridge and and mainplate have a mix of sand-blasting, polishing, and laser decorations. -%%%-

Perhaps the most famous military dive watch straps are the single ‘bracelet’ type parachute elastic ones of the French Marine Nationale. It may be in line with the approach to straps that the modern incarnation of Tudor dive watches to have fabric straps, but the brand says that its choice of strap for this new FXD is inspired by the use by some of their divers in the past of one-piece nylon black or green fabric straps.

The fabric strap that comes on this model was developed with the Julien Faure Company and is woven green nylon with a central red stripe. It comes on a titanium “D” buckle and has a self-gripping fastening system. As you would expect, there is a second strap – black rubber with an embossed fabric motif.

Tudor’s successful modern incarnation due in no small part to its incredibly successful dive watches continues apace with this new piece. Sometimes all you want in a dive watch is a crisp clean dial, clear functionality, a good looking strap, and milspec.

The new Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N has an Australian RRP of $5,970.

[Photo credit: Tudor]

Categories: Divers watches, Tudor, Watch Profile, watches