NEW: Accutron Astronaut GMT Automatic

Bulova’s Archive Collection continues to (re)issue modern versions of some of its most notable historical models. This time they are moving from the ‘ground’ as it were, back up to matters lunar, with the new Accutron Astronaut GMT Automatic.

In 1962 Bulova produced the Astronaut, a 214 movement-based GMT watch (the 214 having already established itself through the legendary Accutron Spaceview 214) with a 24-hour rotating bezel, secondary 24-hour hand, and hack function. The Astronaut was initially developed by Bulova for the US space program, but ultimately found its greatest success in the consumer market.

The original Accutron Astronaut’s relationship to the U.S. space program dates back to 1963, when it was worn during the Mercury-Atlas 9 mission orbiting earth. It was also the official watch for pilots in the USAF X-15 experimental rocket program and in fact, was a popular model for early astronauts on the manned space flight programs.

Bulova released numerous variants of the Accutron Astronaut, each variant with various cosmetic changes (bezel, dial, case material, hands, bracelets/ straps) and designated with a single letter or what Bulova calls its “Style Name”. The roots of this new limited edition lie in the 1968 “T” version of the Astronaut model, featuring a day/ night GMT bezel.

This new Accutron Astronaut is in 41mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 13.85mm and water resistance of 100m. The originals were 38mm with a domed acrylic crystal, versus the Accutron Astronaut GMT Automatic has an anti-reflective double box sapphire crystal.

The original Astronauts did not have a traditional crown, the time was set by a recessed ring with a hinge on the case back. This new re-edition does have a small crown.

Rather than the electric movement, this re-edition has the automatic Sellita SW330 GMT movement which is partially visible through the case back. It beats at 28,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 56 hours.

The 2023 model keeps a (matte) black dial, with ‘Accutron’ and ‘Astronaut’ branding on the dial. The markers are the same as the original. The applied indices sit alongside markers with Super-LumiNova, with filled triangles indicating ‘half hours’ located between the markers and aligned with the GMT ring. The day/ night GMT bezel has two split 12-hour sections (rather than 24-hour), and the day and night split at 5:30 on one side and 6:30 on the other, which might be a bit disconcerting. All the hands contain Super-LumiNova, and the GMT hand has a triangular lumed tip.

The originals had two bracelet styles – the Kreisler ‘Coffin-Link’ bracelet or the JB Champion ‘Bullet-Link’ bracelet. Coming on a ‘bullet’ stainless steel bracelet with deployant, the new Accutron Astronaut GMT Automatic is limited to 300 pieces and has an RRP of USD 3,500.

 

[Photo credit: Bulova]



Categories: watches

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