Today is about two contrasting new releases from Audemars Piguet, both of which clearly represent both the brand and the Royal Oak, but which also reflect both how the original Royal Oak is still not just the dominant force of the brand’s identity, but also how it has provided the canvas on which such vastly different things can be done, each of which still maintain its own identity within the broader RO ‘framework’ as it were.
First up – it may not be part of the core collections and thus, not get as much air time, but Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept has, since its debut over two decades ago, provided an occasional platform for the brand to play around. The Concept pieces also have particularly strong case designs, with the familiar Royal Oak shape ramped up several notches.
Now, the collection has expanded with the release of its very first automatic split-seconds flyback chronograph.
The Royal Oak Concept Split seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date (Ref. 26650) is also in a new 43mm case size (thickness of 17.4mm) which features the first interchangeable strap of the Royal Oak Concept collection. Water resistance is 50m. The case has sand-blasted titanium inserts and the bezel features polished chamfers. Protected by guards, the pushers at 2, 4 and 9 o’clock are black ceramic.
Based on the cal. 4401 that debuted in the Code 11.59 Chronograph, the new movement is the automatic Calibre 4407, beating at 28,000 VPH and with a power reserve of 70 hours. You can see the split-seconds feature of the flyback chronograph, which is inserted within the ball bearing holding the platinum rotor, through the open case back. The split-seconds wheel and two actuating clamps are at the rotor’s centre, under the X-shaped bridge.
The dial is black PVD with open-worked German silver, featuring a black inner bezel and white gold applied hour markers. Alongside the time, small seconds, big date at 12 o’clock and flyback chronograph, there is, as per the name, a GMT hand and day/ night indicator at 3 o’clock.
As mentioned, the straps are interchangeable. It comes on a black and grey rubber strap with a titanium three-blade folding clasp and there is a second black rubber strap. The RRP is CHF 170,000.
The second new model is the Royal Oak Automatic Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. It was presented at the SIHH 2018 as a prototype called the RD#2, and is now in a limited edition full titanium model.
More in line with the origins of the Royal Oak, in its guise as a luxury sports watch with a certain dress watch flair to it, the new Ref. 26586 is in a 41mm-sized titanium case which a thickness of 6.2mm and water resistance of 20m. In terms of finishing, the screws and chamfers of the bezel, case and bracelet links are polished, with a vertical satin-brushed finishing on other parts.
The Royal Oak Automatic Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a new smoky-blue satin-brushed dial. Both the markers and hands are white gold, the latter with Super-LumiNova. The perpetual calendar functions are on snailed black counters – the month and leap year indication are at 3 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock, day and day/ night indicator at 9 o’clock. The moon phase is at 12 o’clock.
Powering it is the automatic in-house ultra-thin (2.89mm) Calibre 5133, which beats at 19,800 VPH and has a power reserve of 40 hours. Introduced in 2017, it has 256 parts within a space measuring 2.9mm thick. How is it able to be so thin?
To start with, the dial is also the bridge. Secondly, rather than the perpetual calendar functions being on three levels, they are on a single level, something which required two (patented) innovations – the integration of the end-of-month cam with the date wheel, and the association of the month cam with the month wheel. To further reduce thickness, the dial also acts as a bridge.
In a limited edition of 200 pieces, the Royal Oak Automatic Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin comes on a satin-brushed bracelet with polished links and a titanium folding clap. Its RRP is CHF 137,000.
[Photo credit: Audemars Piguet]
Categories: Audemars Piguet, chronograph, GMT/ dual/ worldtimer, Limited Editions, Watch Profile, watches
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