WATCHES & WONDERS 2022: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection GMT Titanium SBGE283 & SBGE285

At their inaugural appearance at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko launched five new additions to their Evolution 9 Spring Drive Collection. They consist of two GMT models, two GMT chronographs and one diver’s watch, all in titanium.

Today we shall be looking at the SBGE283 and SBGE285, the GMTs. They share the same specifications but have different dials – the Grand Seiko SBGE283 features a smooth black dial, whereas the SGBE285 has a light grey textured dial.

Size wise, the case is 41mm with a thickness of 13.9mm. Both the case and bracelet are made from high-intensity titanium which, according to Grand Seiko is approximately 30% lighter than stainless steel and brighter in colour in addition to the usual benefits of using titanium. They have a screw-down crown and a water resistance of 100m. The lugs have a bevelled edge.

As the name says, the new model has a GMT function so you can read a second time zone. The ‘local time’ is displayed with the dominant hour and minute hands. The ‘home time’ is indicated with a black hand with a lumed tip. The hand is used in conjunction with the bezel (featuring a new font developed for the Evolution 9 collection) which is marked with a 24-hour scale and day/ night indication. There is a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock and a minute track is on the dial flange encircling the display. The hour and minute hands and markers have ‘Lumibrite’, with the batons at 12 o’clock a ‘double’ one.

The dial of the SBGE283 is, well black. But the surface is sleek and smooth and ‘very Grand Seiko’. The brand is known for its textured dials, a number of which we have covered previously, and we’re not just talking about the ‘Snowflake’ dial. The texture and pattern of the dial on the SBGE285 is, according to the brand, “inspired by the morning mist in winter in the Shinshu region”.

Their surrounds are one of their most common sources of dial inspiration. You may recall our post late last year about the Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive “Shizuri-yuki” (complete with book recommendation) and in 2020, they released the special Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH002, which we covered. Their natural surrounds are a common theme across dress and more ‘everyday’ or ‘sports’ watches at Grand Seiko.

Through the open case back we can see the Spring Drive Calibre 9R66 movement. It has a power reserve of 72 hours. As per all Spring Drive watches, the seconds hand just glides around the dial. We have covered the basics of Spring Drive movements before, so you can read about it in older posts.

The styling of these new models mean that they are more on the sporty side of the spectrum. Their dial colour/ textures are what give them a ‘dressy’ edge, but the rest of it, including the size of the indices and design of the bezel, falls neatly into an everyday wear type of ‘sports casual’ category. But with a quintessentially Grand Seiko touch. You will be able to get an additional leather strap in a variety of colours, and that will definitely change its look.

Both the new Evolution 9 SBGE283 and SBGE285G GMT have an Australian RRP of $12,500.

Categories: Hands-on, Japanese watches, Seiko, Watch Profile, watches, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, Women's watches

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