HANDS-ON : H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD

Formerly known as the Perpetual 1 and H.Moser & Cie’s first piece when the brand was re-launched in 2005, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, revamped by the Meylan family who purchased the Moser Group in 2012, has had a number of iterations since then, of which we compared two, including the pared-back ultra minimalism of the Perpetual Calendar Concept, , at this link, as well as going Cosmic Green.

In 2017 this complication made its way to another collection in the form of the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Steel. Now, H.Moser & Cie have taken a further step away from the Endeavour Perpetual styling with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD, which brings with it the appearance of two windows displaying the date and the month. These two indications are on separate discs and change/ jump instantaneously. The other perpetuals have a single date window and a small centrally mounted arrow that pointed at the hour marker corresponding with the current month.

Along with the time and a small seconds at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, and day and month windows at 3 o’clock, there is also a leap year indicator on the movement side.

This new model comes in two versions, both in 42.8mm sized stainless steel cases with 120m water resistance. The one shown in this post, the Reference 3808-1200, has a burgundy fumé dial and comes in a limited edition of 50 pieces. The Reference 3808-1201 has a Funky Blue fumé dial and is also in a limited edition of 50 pieces. They share the same leaf-shaped Super-LumiNova coated hands, but differ in their style of markers (also lumed) – either more traditional long hour markers or small dots.

The date can be set at any time of day, forwards or backwards, with no risk of damaging the movement, and the familiar Moser leap-year indication is visible through the open case back on the new in-house manual-wind Calibre HMC 808, which beats at 18,00VPH, has a seven day power reserve, and a hacking seconds.

Both of these the new limited edition Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MDs come on a black alligator leather or black rubber strap with a pin buckle. In comparing them to the others that we’ve covered on Horologium, it probably comes down in the end to design preferences as much as anything. My personal preference is for a single date window variant because I find the the presence of two windows with different heights a bit less visually balanced on the dial, and I like the small month hand.



Categories: H. Moser & Cie, Hands-on, Limited Editions, Sydney, Watch Profile, watches

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