ULYSSE NARDIN : Jade ‘Grand Feu’ Ruby Red

This year Ulysse Nardin have unveiled three versions of the Jade ‘Grand Feu’ model, each coming on a matching strap. These new watches highlight the renowned enamelling work of Donzé Cadrans, about whom we have mentioned before. The new colours are – ruby red, the one we saw, blue turquoise, and grey.

For those unfamiliar with what it takes to achieve this sort of dial, the wave pattern is guillochéd onto the surface before the delicate grand feu enamel process is undertaken. This guilloché enamel dial has been given an additional flourish with a wave of 22 diamonds that hugs part of the seconds sub dial.

Two openwork hands show hours and the minutes, moving across differently-sized Arabic numerals, a feature extended to the sub dial and a bit of ‘font size freedom’ which gives the watch an eye-catching distinctive character.

Inside is the Calibre UN-310, with a power reserve of forty-eight hours. When it was first introduced in 2013, the Jade model was notable for two ‘firsts’. This movement, which was the first in-house Ulysse Nardin movement for its women’s watches, is perhaps the most important of the Jade ‘firsts’.

The other ‘first’, which features in these new pieces, is an unusual crown design that does not require it to be pulled out to wind, adjust, or set. Everything is done by a turn. The wearer uses the pusher at 4 o’clock to select one of the three setting positions, with the indicator at 2 o’clock on the dial identifying the setting mode.

All of this is contained within an oval case measuring 36mmx39mm that has an additional 56 diamonds around it. As mentioned at the outset, there are three new models this year. We did not get to see all three, but this is what the other two versions look like. If you like a bit of red in your life, the ruby red version we saw is an attractive shade of red and well worth taking a look at.

The RRP for the new Jade Grand Feu is CHF 14,900.

Categories: Hands-on, SIHH 2017, Ulysse Nardin, Watch Profile, watches, Women's watches

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