You may recall a post from last year about two of Moser’s perpetual calendars – the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept, both powered by the in-house double-barrelled manual-wind Calibre HMC 341 with a seven day power reserve and beating at 18,000 VPH.
Today, we introduce the recently launched Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel, presented as a more ‘everyday wear’ type of watch than the white gold, rose told and platinum (although the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar also comes in titanium) Perpetuals mentioned in my earlier posts.
H. Moser & Cie. launched its Pioneer collection in 2015. Although it still early days with the Pioneer family, so far their use of bolder hands and indices, not to mention luminous material, make for a stronger dial personality compared to the other collections, and its positioning within the Moser collection families make it more accessible.
Whenever you see a Moser fumé dial it pretty much ends up being the focal point of the watch. For this new piece, it’s a sumptuous midnight-blue fumé with a sunburst pattern. There is also the presence of Super-LumiNova on the leaf-shaped half-skeleton hands and hour marker dots to make for easier dim light time reading than its Moser siblings.
Through the back you can see the double-barrelled manual-wind Calibre HMC 800 that beats at 18,000VPH and has a power reserve of seven days. It features an in-house escapement that is designed with the intention of being replaced upon servicing, a Moser feature. The movement also had a hacking seconds.
So, how do you read this calendar? It should be familiar to you if you know the previous perpetual calendars, but for those who have not clicked on the links above, let’s go through the functions.
The big date is self-evident, and instantaneously jumps at midnight. There is small sub seconds at 6 o’clock, and the up/ down indicator at 9 o’clock is the power reserve.
You will see a small pointer (it doesn’t seem long enough to call it a hand) in the middle – this is the month indicator. Twelve months, twelve markers for the hours; the markers do double duty as month indicators.
Rather than have the four year cycle on the front, you will find it on the back. That small star-shaped wheel visible through the case back is the leap year indicator, with the black segment indicating the leap year.
So how is this all operated? Via a double-click crown that allows you to go forward and backward when setting.
The 42.8mm stainless steel case has a water resistance of 120m and comes on a black alligator strap.
I really like how Moser have done perpetual calendars, and was very taken with the Endeavour when I saw it. We wondered whether there might be one in stainless steel coming up. We were only half correct. Right metal, wrong collection, but perhaps now, my new favourite Moser perpetual.